Capeia Arraiana / Forcão

“Capeia arraiana” is a traditional, one-of-a-kind bullfight from the region of “Ribacôa” – in the centre of Portugal, near the border to Spain. It’s a challenge between humans and animals, where bulls are neither killed nor harmed.

It happens every August, one day in each village, according to the Catholic religious calendar, and celebrates each patron saint. The “Capeia Arraiana” is an event that involves the entire neighbourhood and lasts a whole day, from dusk until dawn.

The “encerro”

The “encerro” starts in the surrounding fields, where the villagers escort the wild bulls (toiros) to the bullring. They are accompanied by the “cabrestos” (tame bulls, from a different breed). Some conduct the bulls on horseback, while others follow on four-wheelers or quads. Many attend behind fences. It lasts until the bulls are kept in the bull ring’s “curros” corrals – often until lunch time.
It enacts the period when the bulls were borrowed from Spain, and there was no motorised transport. Nowadays, they’re brought from different parts of the country by truck and kept on a fence from the previous day.

The bull of proof (boi da prova)

After the bulls enter the bullring, one of them is chosen as the bull of proof – meaning, a test of bravery. It’s released in the ring, where some daring youngsters run in front, showing their own courage and skill. Sometimes, the “forcão” (more to it later) is also brought to the ring.

Then, there is lunch – it’s common to see a few stalls selling grilled chicken, cheese, and figs for people to bring home.

The “Capeia” (bullfight)

The Capeia is the main show happening mid-afternoon, in the bullring.

It starts with the demand of the bullring. (Pedir a praça). It’s a short ceremony where a group of youngsters in their finest clothing parade around the ring to demand the mayor the use of the premises. In some villages, it’s performed on horseback. The mayor or another honourable citizen, on his behalf, performs a speech and authorises the show to start.

After that, six bulls are released, one by one, in a celebration that lasts until night. A group of nearly thirty young men await each one, holding the “forcão” (crotch, or pitchfork).

The “forcão” is a wooden triangular device, under 5 metres in length and width, weighing some hundreds of kilograms. It’s made with oak crotches and pine trunks, tied with ropes.

In the back vertex, two men manoeuvre the direction. The remaining follow their directions and try to keep it levelled, so that the bull isn’t able to reach them.

It’s an interesting game of coordination and skill, but also of cold-bloodedness and courage. As the bull quits charging, the “forcão” is set aside, and everyone is welcome to test their speed and skill on running around the bull in the ring. If the conditions are met, a group of men grab the bull, which is then returned to the corrals.